Dealing with a Finicky Cruisair Flow Switch
If you've noticed your boat's AIR CONDITIONING UNIT acting up lately, there's a great chance your cruisair flow switch is trying to inform you something. There is honestly nothing even worse than being trapped at the boat dock or out on a mooring on a sweltering September afternoon, only in order to realize your air conditioning has determined to take a good unscheduled vacation. More often than not, the compressor by itself is fine, but this tiny, unassuming component is stopping the entire system through running to shield it from burning out.
It's one of all those parts that many boat owners don't even think about till it fails. But when it does, it usually provides the entire cooling program to a grinding halt. Let's get into why this particular little switch is so important, how to tell if it's the origin of your headaches, and exactly what you can do in order to get the cold air blowing again without spending a fortune on a services call.
What does this switch actually do?
In a marine air flow conditioning setup, drinking water is everything. In contrast to the AC within your house that will utilizes a big enthusiast to blow air across coils, your own Cruisair system utilizes seawater (raw water) to heat aside from the refrigerant. To do this, a pump has to constantly draw water from outside the boat, drive it through the condenser, and spit it in return out through a thru-hull fitting.
The cruisair flow switch acts just like a sentry for that water movement. It sits in the plumbing related line and "feels" the water moving. In the event that the pump neglects, a hose gets kinked, or even a plastic bag gets drawn into your intake, the water stops moving. Without drinking water, the system would get hot and potentially eliminate the compressor within minutes. The flow switch detects that insufficient pressure or movement and immediately cuts power to the system. It's a safety function, but man, it could be annoying when this gets sensitive.
Signs your switch has seen better days
Generally, the very first sign of trouble isn't smoke cigarettes or perhaps a loud sound; it's a cryptic code on your own digital display. In the event that you see "LO PS" (Low Pressure) or "HI PS" (High Pressure) blinking, your system will be basically throwing the red flag. While these codes can mean other things—like the refrigerant leak—a failing cruisair flow switch is a very common reason, especially if you know for the fact that drinking water is actually pumping out your side of the boat.
Sometimes the failure is intermittent. A person might find that will the AC runs perfectly fine to have an hour, then randomly shuts down. Or possibly you have in order to tap the switch or wiggle the wires to obtain it to kick upon. If you're viewing plenty of drinking water "pissing" out of the thru-hull but the control screen says there's simply no flow, you can bet your bottom part dollar that the switch is either stuck, corroded, or simply basic worn out.
Troubleshooting the "No Flow" mystery
Before you proceed out and purchase a new part, it's worth doing a little detective work. First, check your own sea strainer. It sounds basic, but a handful associated with sea grass or a few small jellyfish can restrict flow just good enough to trip the particular switch. If the particular strainer is clear, take a look in the pump. Will be it humming? Could it be getting hot?
If the pump is pressing plenty of water yet the cruisair flow switch still won't close the circuit, you've refined it down. These switches often make use of a little inner paddle or the pressure-sensitive diaphragm. Over time, salt deposits and calcium deposits may build up inside the switch housing. Occasionally, you can in fact take the switch out and soak it in the mild acid solution or even white white vinegar to dissolve the scale, and it'll begin working like brand-new again. It's the great trick to try if you're trapped at an tropical isle and can't get a replacement.
The "Paperclip Test" (Use with extreme caution! )
When you're really within a bind and need to figure out when the switch is the problem, you can technically bypass it. I'm not saying you should run your boat such as this permanently—that's a recipe for a melted compressor—but for a five-minute test, it's a lifesaver.
You basically leap the 2 wires that will navigate to the cruisair flow switch . If the AC kicks on and starts chilling immediately, then you've confirmed the switch is bad. Simply make sure a person actually see water coming out of the boat while you try this. In the event that you bypass the particular switch and run the system with out water, you're heading to have a very much more expensive maintenance on your hands than the simple switch replacement.
Just how to replace the switch yourself
Replacing a cruisair flow switch is actually a pretty straightforward DIY job. You don't need to be an underwater HVAC expert to handle it. Generally, it's just screwed into a "T" fitting in the water line.
- Power down: Switch off the breaker for that AC plus the pump. You don't want any surprises.
- Close the seacock: A person definitely don't want the ocean coming inside the motorboat while you've got the plumbing open.
- Disconnect the wires: They're generally just simple crimp connectors or mess terminals.
- Unscrew the outdated switch: Have a hand towel ready, because there's always a small bit of "nuisance water" left within the lines.
- Tape it upward: Make use of a good amount of Teflon tape or pipe sealant on the strings of the new switch. Marine vibrations are real, and you don't need slow drip starting two weeks from right now.
- Line it in: Be cautious not to cross-thread it, especially in case the "T" installing is plastic.
Once it's in, open the seacock, check for leaks, and fire it back again up. It's a single of those maintenance tasks that feels really satisfying because this takes about 20 minutes but saves you a $300 service call.
Why do this stuff fail so often?
Boats are a harsh atmosphere. You've got sodium, humidity, constant vibration, and temperature shifts. The cruisair flow switch is often sitting inside a damp bilge area or a filled engine room, which isn't exactly a spa for electrical components.
Another big factor is the water quality. In case you boat in silty water or even areas with plenty of biological growth, that "stuff" eventually makes its method past the strainer and into the particular switch. A tiny piece of cover can get wedged within the paddle mechanism. This is the reason it's so important to eliminate your AC lines with fresh water or a descaling answer once a 12 months. It keeps the particular switch—and all of those other cooling loop—clean and happy.
Choosing the right alternative
When you begin looking for a new cruisair flow switch , you may notice there are a several different styles. Some are the traditional exercise type, while others are "pressure switches" that look a little like a small metal container.
It's usually best to stick with what has been there before, yet you can occasionally upgrade to a more contemporary, solid-state flow messfühler if you're sensation fancy. Just make sure the line size matches (usually 1/2" or 3/4" NPT) and that the particular electrical rating will be compatible with your Cruisair control board. If you're uncertain, snapping a photo of the aged one and delivering it to the marine parts provider could be the safest wager.
Keeping points flowing smoothly
Maintenance is the best way to avoid having to clutter with your cruisair flow switch in the very first place. Every time you visit the particular boat, take a fast glance at the water discharge. This should be a solid, steady stream. If this looks weak or "spitting, " your pump is striving, and your flow switch is regarding to have the very bad day time.
I often tell individuals to maintain a spare switch in their "save-a-trip" kit. They aren't huge, they aren't incredibly expensive, plus having one upon hand can literally save a weekend break cruise. There's nothing at all quite like becoming the hero that fixes the AIR CONDITIONING in twenty moments while everyone otherwise is sweating by means of their shirts.
All in all, the cruisair flow switch is just a simple gatekeeper. It has one job: to make sure your program doesn't commit committing suicide by running dried out. Treat it well, keep your water lines clean, plus it'll return the particular favor by keeping your cabin ice-cold all summer long. And if it does fail? Don't sweat it. It's one particular of the simpler things to fix upon a boat, plus once you've performed it once, you'll never be intimidated by an "HP" code again.