Tips for mounting a kicker motor on a boat
If you've been considering about mounting a kicker motor on a boat, you're likely searching for a way to save hours on your primary engine or just want that additional layer of safety when you're miles offshore. It's one of those enhancements that feels a bit intimidating at first—mostly because you're about to drill holes in your own hull—but the payoff is huge. Whether you're a die-hard troller chasing walleye or a seaside boater who wants a "get home" motor, getting the set up right is the particular difference between a smooth day on the water plus a massive headaches.
Why make use of a kicker in any case?
Before we get into the particular nuts and bolts from the job, it's worth asking exactly why people do this particular in the very first place. Most large outboards aren't really designed to bored at 1. five miles per hour for six hrs straight. They obtain "coked up, " they burn method too much fuel, and they put unnecessary wear and tear on a costly powerhead.
A small 8hp or 9. 9hp kicker, on another hand, is built for that exact type of work. It's quiet, it's effective, and it offers you incredibly precise acceleration control. Plus, if your main engine ever decides to call it quits while you're out in the middle of no place, having that kicker already mounted and ready to go is a total lifesaver.
Picking the correct spot on the transom
The particular first big decision you have in order to make is where the motor is in fact heading to sit. A lot of people choose the interface (left) side associated with the boat. Exactly why? Because on most smaller boats, the driver sits on the starboard (right) side. Placing the particular kicker on the port side assists balance out the weight of the chief, keeping the boat level while you're running.
However, you can't just pick a spot and start going. You need to look for clearances. Convert your primary outboard almost all the way left and right to make sure it's not going to break into the kicker. You also need to look at your swim ladders, cut tabs, and transducers. There's nothing even worse than mounting a kicker only in order to realize your fishfinder no longer works because the kicker's reduce unit is producing a massive wake up of bubbles right over the sensor.
Fixed mounting brackets vs. adjustable mounts
Depending on your boat's design, you'll either require a fixed bracket or an adjustable "lift" bracket. When you have a flat transom that sits fairly low to the water, a fixed bracket is generally the way in order to go. They're rock solid and have fewer moving parts to break or rattle.
If a person have a boat with a higher transom or a swim platform, you'll probably need an adjustable bracket. These types of allow you to lower the motor into the drinking water when you need it and raise it completely taken care of when you're hanging around on your main engine. Don't go cheap on the bracket. A kicker motor may only weigh a hundred pounds, but when you're bouncing throughout choppy water with 30 mph, that will motor is placing a massive amount of power and stress on that mount. Appear for heavy-duty stainless steel or thick aluminum.
The "scary" part: Going and sealing
Once you've designated your holes, it's time to drill. It's always a little nerve-wracking to put holes in a perfectly good boat, but if you do it right, it's perfectly secure.
Pro tip: Use a backing plate. By no means just run bolts through the fiberglass with a little washer on the back. You would like a large aluminum or stainless plate on the inside from the transom to distribute the load. In case you don't use one, the oscillation and weight associated with the motor can eventually cause the fiberglass to break or "spider" around the bolt holes.
When it comes to keeping water out, skip the cheap hardware shop silicone. You want a high-quality ocean sealant like 3M 5200 (if you want it in order to stay there forever) or 4200 (if you might would like to remove it someday). Slather that stuff on the particular bolts and inside the holes. You want it to squeeze out a little bit when you tighten every thing down so you understand you've got a watertight seal.
Hooking up the steering
You've got two primary choices here: a tiller handle or a steering tie-bar. If you're just using the kicker for emergency backup, a tiller handle is fine. But if you're trolling, you possibly want to be capable of steer the particular kicker from the particular helm.
A tie-bar connects your kicker motor to your main outboard. When you switch your steering wheel, both motors move in unison. It's a pretty easy setup, but you have to make sure the geometry is right so the motors don't bind up whenever you tilt one of them up. There are several "quick-disconnect" versions around that are great if you don't always want the motors linked together.
Dealing with fuel and power
How are you going to feed the beast? Some men just use a small 3-gallon portable tank tucked below a seat. It's guaranteed it functions. But if you want a cleaner appearance, you can "T" into your main fuel line.
If you go the "T" route, create sure you install a shut-off valve or a check out valve. You don't want your major engine sucking surroundings from the kicker range, and also you don't would like the kicker to pull fuel away from the main engine when you're running at high speeds.
For your electrical part, if your kicker has an electric begin and an alternator, you'll want to wire it for your beginning battery. In this way, the kicker is in fact getting your battery while you're trolling almost all day, which is a huge plus if you're working big electronics and livewells.
Obtaining the right height
The level of the propeller is crucial. If it's too high, it'll "ventilate" (suck air) every single time a little wave hits. If it's too low, you're adding unnecessary move and might hit bottom in shallower areas. Ideally, you need the cavitation dish (the flat fin above the prop) to be about an inch or even two below the particular bottom from the hull when the motor is in the "down" position.
It may take a little trial and mistake. Don't be afraid in order to move the motor up or straight down a hole on the bracket right after your first check run. Small changes can make a huge difference in precisely how much thrust you obtain and how properly the boat manages at low rates of speed.
Final ideas before you mind out
Mounting a kicker motor on a boat is one of all those DIY projects that really changes the way you use your yacht. It opens up a totally new world associated with fishing techniques plus gives you a level of self-confidence that you just don't have with a single engine.
Consider your time with the measurements, don't skimp on the particular sealant, and make certain that bracket is usually beefy enough for your job. Once it's all bolted down and the fuel is flowing, you'll wonder why you didn't do it yrs ago. There's something incredibly satisfying about clicking that little motor into equipment, hearing it purr at a sound, and watching your own GPS hit that perfect 2. 2 your trolling speed. Happy boating!